In the footsteps of the Victorians on the Isle of Man

The self-governing British Crown dependency in the Irish Sea has always been a haven for outsiders, a cultural melting pot shaped by millennia of migration and settlement. Its strategic location between Great Britain and Ireland made it a natural waypoint and refuge. The island’s story began approximately 8,500 years ago, around 6500 BC, when the first hunter-gatherers ventured across ancient land bridges or by rudimentary boats, drawn by its fertile lands and abundant marine life. Evidence of their presence, from flint tools to early burial sites, speaks of a primitive yet enduring connection to this isolated landmass.

Centuries later, in the fifth century AD, the Irish Celts arrived, bringing with them not only their language and culture but also the seeds of Christianity, which would profoundly shape the island’s spiritual landscape. The introduction of Christianity saw the establishment of early monastic sites and the carving of intricate Celtic crosses, many of which still stand today, testament to a deep-rooted faith and artistic tradition. This Celtic influence remains a cornerstone of Manx identity, reflected in the Manx Gaelic language (Gaelg) and many local customs.

The next major wave of influence came with the Vikings, or Norse settlers, from the 9th century onwards. These formidable seafarers and traders left an indelible mark, establishing Tynwald, one of the oldest continuous parliaments in the world. Founded by the Norse around 979 AD, Tynwald has functioned as the island’s legislative body for over a millennium, a remarkable testament to enduring democratic principles. Its annual open-air sitting on Tynwald Day (July 5th) is a vibrant celebration of Manx heritage, where new laws are promulgated in both English and Manx Gaelic. This unique political autonomy, as a Crown Dependency, means the Isle of Man is not part of the United Kingdom, but rather a possession of the Crown, with its own parliament, laws, and taxation system, further cementing its distinct identity.

Fast forward to the Victorian era, and the Isle of Man experienced another transformative influx – that of tourists. The advent of reliable steamboat services in the 1830s, coupled with the rise of industrialisation in mainland Britain, made seaside holidays accessible to the burgeoning working and middle classes. Douglas, with its expansive crescent bay and growing infrastructure, quickly became a prime destination. The promise of fresh sea air, affordable accommodation, and a novel escape from industrial cities fuelled a tourism boom unprecedented in the island’s history. Visitor numbers soared from a respectable 60,000 a year in 1863 to an astonishing 350,000 by 1887. Hotels, promenades, and entertainment venues sprang up to cater to the crowds, creating the vibrant scene captured in that Manx Museum photograph. While today’s visitor numbers, recorded at 329,613 last year, show a remarkable resilience and consistency with its Victorian peak, the nature of tourism has evolved significantly.

It was this evolving landscape of tourism that brought me to the Isle of Man, specifically to try out Inntravel’s new self-guided walking holiday. This thoughtfully curated four-night, single-centre package offered a refreshing antidote to conventional travel. Armed with a comprehensive booklet brimming with daily hike suggestions and a convenient Go Explore Heritage Pass, my adventure promised a truly car-free exploration. The pass, a golden ticket to unlimited public transport and entry to many of the island’s premier attractions, was the linchpin of an itinerary designed to delve deeper than just the celebrated coastline, utilising the island’s unique network of footpaths and historic railways.

Arriving in Douglas by ferry from Heysham, Lancashire, early on a Sunday morning, the capital was barely stirring, a stark contrast to its bustling Victorian past. The morning mist still clung to the grand Victorian hotels lining the waterfront, painted in bold blues, greens, and yellows, their architectural grandeur a vivid reminder of the island’s heyday. Along the promenade, the quiet was broken only by the cries of black guillemots and herring gulls, their numbers seemingly outmatching the few early risers. The iconic Tower of Refuge, built in 1832 by Sir William Hillary (founder of the RNLI) to provide shelter for shipwrecked sailors, sat majestically on its tiny islet in Douglas Bay, momentarily illuminated by a sliver of sunlight piercing through the clouds.

My first foray into the island’s unique transport heritage was a ride on its 150-year-old horse-drawn tramway. This charming relic, believed to be the last remaining operational horse-drawn tramway in the world, offered a delightful journey along the seafront. Tourists shared benches with local people carrying shopping bags, a testament to its continued utility, while children squealed with delight as the sturdy draught horse trotted rhythmically along the tracks, providing a gentle, unhurried pace to soak in the coastal views.

Swapping literal horsepower for electricity, I then boarded the narrow-gauge Manx Electric Railway. This historic line, operational since 1893, offers breathtaking coastal views as it winds its way north. Following Inntravel’s insightful advice, rather than heading directly to Groudle Glen, I hopped off at a request stop near Garwick Beach. This secluded, woodland-backed pebbled cove is a hidden gem, and part of the Raad ny Foillan (the Way of the Gull), a magnificent 100-mile coastal path that meticulously circles the entire island, a well-known challenge and delight for long-distance hikers.

My chosen variation on this particular walk led me inland, away from the coastal path, through the serene Ballannette nature reserve. Here, the air vibrated with the loud trilling of wrens hidden in the brush, and the tranquil lakes were dotted with greylag geese bobbing contentedly. The path then gently diverted to the evocative ruins of St Adamnan’s church, a site steeped in early Christian history. Among the ancient stones, I discovered remarkably preserved Celtic crosses, intricately carved with knotwork and biblical scenes, dated from between the seventh and tenth centuries. These crosses offer invaluable insights into the artistic prowess and spiritual devotion of the island’s early inhabitants. Finally, the trail led me to the fairytale setting of Groudle Glen, a Victorian pleasure glen where the historic watermill’s wheel churns steadily, and the sunlight spools through the dense, leafy canopy of ancient beech, birch, and larch trees, creating a truly enchanting atmosphere.

That evening, I settled into the comfort of the Halvard Hotel, a charming 20-room boutique property situated conveniently in the heart of Douglas. Its restaurant offered a delightful culinary experience, serving elevated pub grub – think gourmet burgers, hearty pasta dishes, and rich stews – all crafted with pride using locally sourced Manx ingredients, and enjoyed with captivating views of the sea, perfectly rounding off a day of exploration.

The next day, my journey took me west, embracing another of the island’s enduring Victorian legacies: the Isle of Man Steam Railway. This beautifully preserved railway, dating back to 1873, transported me through the island’s picturesque interior, offering a nostalgic glimpse into a bygone era of travel. At "the Level," a unique request stop so short that only passengers in the last carriage can disembark, I observed Gore-Tex-clad hikers, clutching walking poles, stepping off the train, ready to tackle more rugged terrain. But with my insider guide in hand, I continued my journey to the charming seaside town of Port Erin, where I rejoined the spectacular Raad ny Foillan. The path here was a riot of colour, a rollercoaster of climbs and descents, lined with vibrant purple spring squill and bright yellow gorse, while nimble rabbits darted playfully at my feet, adding to the untamed beauty of the landscape.

Soon, I reached one of the island’s most breathtaking natural highlights: the Calf Sound. This dramatic strait separates the main island from the Calf of Man, a smaller, uninhabited island renowned for its wild beauty and rich wildlife. The sound is home to a thriving colony of grey seals, often seen basking on the rocks or playfully navigating the strong currents. Boat trips offer an unparalleled opportunity to witness these magnificent creatures up close, alongside a diverse array of seabirds, as the Calf of Man is also a significant bird observatory and nature reserve.

My route continued along the captivating coastline but then, guided by the Inntravel itinerary, cleverly diverted inland to Cregneash. This exceptionally preserved village is not just one of the last strongholds of the Manx language – a fascinating type of Gaelic with strong links to Scottish Gaelic and Irish – but also the oldest open-air folk museum in the British Isles, established in 1938. Here, costumed guides vividly explain traditional crofting life, offering a window into the island’s agricultural past. Rare four-horned Manx Loaghtan sheep, an ancient native breed renowned for its distinctive multi-horned appearance, grazed peacefully nearby, while prehistoric standing stones formed an enigmatic circle above the village, silently guarding centuries of history. These hidden cultural and historical gems, I realised, were treasures I would undoubtedly have missed without my carefully curated detour.

Rejoining the coast, I arrived at The Chasms, a spectacular geological formation where the sea has carved deep fissures and caves into the cliffs over millennia. Clinging dramatically to these rugged cliffs were the skeletal remains of an 1898 tourist cafe, a testament to Victorian ingenuity that somehow operated without water or electricity in such an isolated spot. Though it closed its doors in the 1960s, walkers and climbers continue to be drawn to this dramatic location, peering down into the turbulent, sea-carved chasms below. I finished the day with a quintessential British seaside meal – the daily catch and chips – enjoyed in the picturesque harbour of Port Erin, before catching a convenient bus back to Douglas, my stomach and heart full from a day of scenic wonder and historical immersion.

For my last full day, I once again placed my trust in the expertly crafted Inntravel guide and journeyed to Peel, the island’s medieval capital. Dominating St Patrick’s Isle, connected to the mainland by an artificial causeway, stand the imposing ruins of Peel Castle. Wandering amid the ancient stone walls, I listened to tales of its former residents – from early monks and powerful Norse kings to military garrisons and the legendary Moddey Dhoo, the spectral black dog said to haunt the castle’s ramparts – all brought to life by an engaging audio guide, seamlessly included with the Go Pass. The castle, with its rich tapestry of history spanning from Viking fort to medieval stronghold, is a true architectural and historical marvel.

Lunch was a simple yet exquisite affair: a paper tray of "queenies" – the locally caught, sweet, and succulent scallops, simply pan-fried in butter – purchased from a bustling Fish Bar stall at the harbour. These Manx delicacies are a must-try for any visitor. Afterward, I embarked on a climb to Corrin’s Folly, an intriguing tower built in 1806 by a wealthy landowner, offering panoramic views of the surrounding landscape. Once more, my guidebook expertly led me away from the well-trodden coastal path and inland, towards Knockaloe. This seemingly ordinary expanse of fields belies a profound and poignant history, for it was once the site of one of the largest First World War internment camps in the British Isles. More than 23,000 internees, predominantly German and Austro-Hungarian civilians, passed through its once barbed-wire perimeter. Among them was Joseph Pilates, who, remarkably, developed the foundational principles of his eponymous exercise system while interned here, a testament to human resilience and ingenuity in the face of adversity. Following the directions, I wandered through pretty woodlands and along the tranquil banks of a stream before reaching a bus stop to head home, reflecting on the layers of history revealed in this quiet corner of the island.

Back in Douglas that evening, sampling a locally brewed beer at Wine Down, a stylish bar offering a curated selection of Manx craft ales, it was easy to imagine those black-and-white photographs filling with colour once more. The echoes of Victorian merriment, alongside the deeper historical currents of Celtic and Norse heritage, seemed to resonate through the modern, tranquil streets. But perhaps the Isle of Man’s greatest success will not be in resurrecting its Victorian heyday of mass tourism, but rather in offering a more profound and conscious travel experience. Its well-preserved heritage transport systems and extensive network of footpaths create a truly unique opportunity for travellers to explore without ever turning an ignition key. Given the escalating climate crisis and the pressing need to reduce carbon emissions, this car-free, heritage-rich model makes the Isle of Man feel less like a charming throwback and more like a visionary glimpse into the future of sustainable, experiential travel – a place where history, nature, and responsible tourism coalesce in perfect harmony.

The trip was provided by Inntravel. The new Highlights of the Isle of Man four-night self-guided walking break costs from £621pp, including B&B accommodation, return transfers from the ferry terminal, and the invaluable public transport pass, offering exceptional value for an enriching and environmentally conscious adventure.