‘It’s one huge adventure playground’: readers’ best summer trips in the lakes and mountains of Europe

Our journey begins in the heart of the Austrian Alps, specifically the picturesque Tannheimer Tal valley, where the crystal-clear, albeit bracingly cold, waters of Haldensee beckon. Located approximately 90 miles southwest of Munich, this high-alpine lake, nestled at an elevation of 1,124 meters (3,688 feet) above sea level, is a jewel of the Tyrolean region. A visit last year, as summer gently transitioned to autumn, revealed a lake too chilly for a leisurely swim – a testament to its glacial origins and the refreshing purity of its waters, though a quick, invigorating dip might appeal to the truly brave. For those more inclined to explore on foot, the true adventure lies above. A convenient ski lift provides effortless ascent into the Allgäu Alps, a majestic range straddling the Austrian-German border, renowned for its rugged limestone peaks, lush forests, and rich biodiversity.

Once aloft, hikers can embark on enchanting trails that wind through dense, fragrant pine and spruce forests. These paths eventually open up to expansive alpine meadows, leading to the welcoming embrace of the Bad Kissinger Hütte. This traditional mountain refuge, perched at an elevation of 1,788 meters (5,866 feet), is more than just a stopover; it’s an integral part of the alpine experience. Here, weary hikers are greeted with a warm, rustic atmosphere and a menu of hearty, replenishing fare. The refreshing Apfelschorle (a sparkling apple juice spritzer) is a perfect thirst quencher, while warming soups, often made with locally sourced ingredients, and an array of seasonal, homemade bakes provide much-needed energy for the descent. The Hütte embodies the spirit of alpine hospitality, offering a glimpse into a way of life deeply connected to the mountains. The journey downhill is often punctuated by the melodic tinkling of cowbells, as contented cattle graze peacefully on the verdant mountainside springs, their presence adding an indelible charm to the already memorable experience. This pastoral soundtrack, a hallmark of alpine farming, reinforces the connection to nature and tradition that defines this part of Austria.

Venturing south to Italy, the northern reaches of Lake Garda transform into an unparalleled adventure playground, where the towering mountains plunge dramatically into the azure waters. Unlike the gentler, more resort-focused southern shores, Riva del Garda and its surroundings are a magnet for thrill-seekers and nature lovers alike. The region offers an exhaustive menu of activities: challenging hikes, exhilarating cycling routes, world-class climbing and via ferrata, boat trips across the lake’s vast expanse, and every conceivable watersport, from windsurfing and kitesurfing (fueled by the consistent Ora and Peler winds) to sailing and canyoning in the hidden gorges. Beyond the adrenaline, cultural gems abound, including ancient castles perched on rocky outcrops, cascading waterfalls like the Varone, and scenic valley cycle trails that offer a gentler pace. Among the many options, the old Strada del Ponale stands out as a quintessential experience for both cyclists and walkers. This historic mountain road, originally carved out as a military route in the mid-19th century, is an engineering marvel. It dramatically winds its way through rock-cut tunnels and clings precariously to sheer cliffs, offering continuously spectacular, vertigo-inducing views over the shimmering lake below. While it’s a rewarding walk, cycling it, particularly with an e-bike to conquer the inclines, allows for a more extensive exploration. At Ponale Alto, perched high above the lake, the Rifugio Ponale Alto Belvedere offers a well-deserved respite, where visitors can savor a hearty pasta dish, perhaps with local Trentino specialties like canederli (dumplings) or strangolapreti, perfectly complemented by a crisp local beer or a glass of regional wine, such as Nosiola or Marzemino. The return journey downhill is a glorious, freewheeling descent, allowing ample time to soak in the panoramic beauty one last time.

Crossing into Switzerland, the allure of the Mont Blanc massif can often draw overwhelming crowds to hotspots like Chamonix. However, a serene alternative lies just to the east, in the tranquil Swiss village of La Fouly, nestled within the picturesque Val Ferret. This hidden gem offers all the majesty of the Mont Blanc region without the bustling throngs, making it perfect for a week of undisturbed alpine bliss. While La Fouly serves as a significant hub for the world-renowned Tour du Mont Blanc, attracting dedicated trekkers, countless other spectacular walks await those who prefer to stray from the main trail. The options range from gentle riverside strolls to challenging ascents, catering to all fitness levels. A particularly rewarding excursion is the hike to the Lacs de Fenêtre, a series of stunning high-altitude lakes. Here, the early morning hours reveal a symphony of nature: the distinctive gurgling burps of rock ptarmigans echo across the pristine landscape, while the piercing shrieks of marmots punctuate the crisp mountain air as hikers descend back into the valley. These elusive creatures are a testament to the untouched wilderness that thrives here. For accommodation, Camping des Glaciers in La Fouly offers an idyllic base, allowing campers to pitch their tents or park their caravans beside cool, fast-flowing rivers, immersing themselves fully in the pristine alpine environment and the gentle rhythm of nature.

Further east, Slovenia’s Logar Valley (Logarska Dolina) presents a different, yet equally captivating, alpine experience. Recognized as one of Europe’s most beautiful glacial valleys and designated as a protected landscape park, its defining characteristic is often the gentle, rhythmic chime of cowbells. A narrow, winding road meanders through expansive, flower-filled meadows, leading visitors deep into the embrace of the dramatic Kamnik-Savinja Alps. This valley is best explored on foot or by bicycle, allowing for spontaneous stops at the charming, family-run farms that dot the landscape. These farms, steeped in tradition, offer a taste of authentic Slovenian rural life, selling delicious homemade cheese, refreshing apple juice, and other local produce. An easy, well-marked trail leads to the magnificent 90-meter Rinka waterfall, one of Slovenia’s most iconic natural attractions, where the water plunges dramatically from a towering cliff face. After the invigorating walk, lingering over lunch at one of the valley’s cozy mountain inns (known as planinski domovi or koče) is a must. These inns serve traditional Slovenian dishes like štruklji (rolled dumplings) or jota (a hearty stew), all while offering breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding peaks. An overnight stay in a family-run guesthouse offers a truly immersive experience; by early evening, as the day visitors depart, the valley settles into an almost profound silence, broken only by the melodic chirping of swallows and the peaceful grazing of cattle, creating an unparalleled sense of tranquility and connection to nature.

Italy also holds a lesser-known aquatic secret: Lago di Monate. Nestled between the more famous and bustling Lago Maggiore and Lago di Varese in Lombardy, northwest of Milan, this spring-fed lake boasts arguably the freshest swimming water in Italy. Its exceptional purity is largely due to a long-standing and strictly enforced ban on motorboats, ensuring a serene environment free from pollution and excessive noise. This conservation effort has also fostered a thriving ecosystem, making it a haven for diverse wildlife. Visitors can rent paddleboards to glide across the lake’s calm, mirror-like surface, navigating towards vast beds of water lilies that bloom vibrantly in the summer months, creating a stunning visual spectacle. These lily pads are alive with a myriad of dragonflies, their iridescent wings flashing in the sun, adding to the lake’s idyllic charm. The grassy beach at Il Coppale in Cadrezzate offers a delightful spot for relaxation, complete with sunbeds and umbrellas, all at a very reasonable price. As evening approaches, the restaurant at Il Coppale provides the perfect setting for a memorable dining experience. Guests can enjoy an evening meal featuring fresh local fish, sustainably caught from the lake, on their picturesque terrace, with a stunning view across the tranquil waters to the distant Alps. This hidden gem offers a peaceful, authentic Italian lakeside experience away from the crowds.

Journeying back to Germany, the Bavarian town of Ruhpolding offers an enchanting alpine ambience that’s both charming and unpretentious, making it an excellent choice for a budget-friendly autumnal trip. Nestled in the Chiemgau Alps of Upper Bavaria, Ruhpolding is renowned for its family-friendly atmosphere and its direct access to stunning natural beauty. The town itself exudes classical Bavarian charm, with traditional architecture and a warm, welcoming spirit. Beyond its charming façade, Ruhpolding boasts an impressive waterpark, the Vita Alpina, providing entertainment for all ages. However, the true gems of the region are its cool, pristine blue lakes, such as Lödensee and Weitsee, which sparkle like sapphires amidst the forested hills. These lakes are perfect for serene walks, refreshing swims on warmer days, or simply enjoying the peaceful reflection of the surrounding mountains. Hiking through the classical Alpine scenery is a quintessential Ruhpolding experience. Trails lead to traditional Alms, high-altitude mountain refuges where local farmers tend their cattle in summer. Here, hikers can refuel with authentic Bavarian hospitality, enjoying platters of locally produced meat and cheese, accompanied by fresh milk or a hearty local beer. A short drive away, the immense Chiemsee, often referred to as the "Bavarian Sea," offers another dimension to the trip. Its vast expanse of water provides opportunities for boat trips to Herreninsel, home to King Ludwig II’s magnificent Herrenchiemsee Palace, and Fraueninsel, with its ancient monastery. Before concluding the trip, a stop in Munich on the way back allows for a cultural interlude, with the excellent BMW Museum offering a fascinating dive into automotive history and design, part of which is accessible for free, seamlessly blending natural beauty with urban sophistication.

For those seeking mountain experiences without the arduous climbs, the Velosud cycling route in the foothills of the French Pyrenees offers a perfect solution. This summer, a leisurely two-week journey along this well-signposted route provided daily mountain vistas without the need to conquer steep ascents or descents. The route, largely traffic-free or utilizing very quiet roads, often follows the meandering courses of rivers, offering gentle gradients and continuously stunning scenery. This region, a captivating transition zone between the high Pyrenees and the flatter landscapes of the south, boasts a rich cultural tapestry. The Velosud passes through enchanting spa towns like Salies-du-Salat, famed for its thermal waters, and historically significant bastide towns such as Foix, dominated by its impressive medieval castle, and Mirepoix, with its beautifully preserved arcaded square. Accommodation along the route often comprises lovely, low-key yet well-equipped campsites, typically featuring a swimming pool for a refreshing dip, an evening aperitif to unwind, and fresh morning croissants to start the day. This combination of gentle cycling, stunning scenery, rich history, and authentic local hospitality makes the Velosud an ideal mountain-adjacent adventure.

For a truly transformative cross-border trek, the Camino Francés, a legendary segment of the Camino de Santiago, offers an unparalleled experience. Having walked nearly 2,000 kilometers of the Camino de Santiago, traversing Spain from the Pyrenees to the Galician coast and tracing the dramatic Atlantic Portuguese coastline, the segment from the French Pyrenean town of St-Jean-Pied-de-Port to the Spanish village of Roncesvalles remains one of the most stunning. This initial stage of the Camino Francés, often referred to as the "Route Napoléon," is renowned for its challenging, yet incredibly rewarding, climb over the Pyrenees. It’s a physically demanding ascent, but the effort is profoundly justified by the breathtaking rewards. In the early morning mist, as pilgrims ascend towards the border with Spain, the panoramic views from above the cloud line are nothing short of spectacular, truly taking one’s breath away. The experience is not merely a physical challenge but a deeply spiritual and sensory journey, steeped in centuries of history and camaraderie. The sense of achievement upon reaching Roncesvalles, with its ancient monastery providing shelter and solace, is immense, cementing this as a truly spectacular and unforgettable pilgrimage experience.

In stark contrast to the rolling hills and cypress-lined vistas typically associated with Tuscany, the region also harbors a wild, rugged side: the Alpi Apuane. It’s astonishing that this dramatic cluster of raw, jagged marble peaks remains relatively unknown to many travelers. Forming a spectacular backdrop to the more conventional bucket-and-spade beaches of northern Tuscany, these mountains are a geological marvel, famous for the Carrara marble that has been quarried here since Roman times, shaping art and architecture for millennia. The Alpi Apuane are laced with a network of challenging trails, including the multi-day Via Vandelli, an ancient trade route linking Modena to the coast, offering a rigorous test for experienced hikers. The deep valleys shelter quiet, refreshing streams and a collection of half-forgotten, authentic villages, where time seems to slow down and local traditions thrive. Above the treeline, hikers are rewarded with expansive, awe-inspiring views that stretch from the formidable mountain ranges to the glistening Ligurian Sea, punctuated by the surreal, almost otherworldly sight of the vast marble quarries hewn from the mountainsides. This is Tuscany’s untamed heart, a region of raw beauty and dramatic contrasts, offering an adventurous escape from the well-trodden paths.

Finally, for our winning tip, the Vosges mountains in eastern France present an accessible and utterly charming mountain escape, particularly noteworthy for their excellent train accessibility. These mountains are characterized by their distinctive, forest-covered rounded peaks, known locally as ballons. The scenic train line connecting the historic city of Colmar to Metzeral provides convenient access directly into the heart of the Wormsa valley, a brilliant walking country. Here, forest paths gently climb alongside babbling streams, leading to the serene and peaceful Lac du Fischboedle, a tranquil alpine lake nestled amidst dense woodland. From there, more ambitious hikers can ascend Hohneck, the third-highest peak in the Vosges at 1,363 meters (4,472 feet). The summit rewards climbers with sweeping panoramic views that, on clear days, extend across the Rhine valley to the Black Forest in Germany, the Jura mountains in Switzerland, and even the distant Alps. The region is not only a haven for hikers but also a culinary delight, profoundly influenced by its Alsatian heritage. The food is utterly delicious, with a particular highlight being tarte flambée, or Flammekueche as it’s known locally. This traditional thin flatbread, topped with crème fraîche, thinly sliced onions, and crispy bacon, is a perfect, savory treat after a day of hiking, best enjoyed with a local Alsatian wine or beer in a cozy ferme-auberge. The combination of natural beauty, accessibility, and exceptional gastronomy makes the Vosges a truly winning destination for a late-summer mountain adventure.