Puglia’s Hidden Culinary Gems: A Journey Through Barletta-Andria-Trani’s Cheese, Coast, and Cuisine

‘I don’t eat mozzarella outside Puglia,’ says our friend Savio. ‘It’s not the same.’ Savio is a very opinionated foodie, a purist whose unwavering loyalty to his homeland’s culinary traditions is both endearing and fiercely absolute. His assertion about mozzarella isn’t mere provincial pride; it’s a testament to the distinct quality of the stretched-curd cheese produced in Puglia, a quality he believes is unparalleled elsewhere. I take his words with a pinch of good Puglian sea salt, a metaphorical seasoning that also serves as a nod to the region’s vast salt pans, hinting at the depth of local flavour that permeates every aspect of life here. Savio was adamant about the superiority of the pasta filata cheese from his home turf, and as I would soon discover, his conviction was not misplaced.

Puglia, the sun-drenched heel of Italy, is a region celebrated for its robust agricultural heritage, ancient olive groves, and a cuisine deeply rooted in fresh, seasonal ingredients. It is a land where food is not just sustenance, but a sacred expression of culture and history. Beyond its famous beaches and trulli houses, Puglia boasts a culinary scene that truly comes alive in its lesser-known corners. It is also the birthplace of ingredient du jour burrata, a cheese that has captivated palates worldwide with its creamy, indulgent core. This luxurious delicacy originated in Andria, a few miles from Savio’s home town of Barletta, within the historically rich and agriculturally fertile province of Barletta-Andria-Trani (BAT). Despite its profound cheese connection and Barletta’s miles of palm-backed, sandy beaches, this triangular province is often passed over for better-known parts of Puglia, such as the Valle d’Itria or the Salento peninsula. Intrigued by Savio’s fierce regional pride and the allure of an authentic, untouristed experience, I asked his company, Unexpected Italy – an innovative app that champions sustainable tourism by guiding travellers to off-the-beaten-path destinations – to organise a trip to this overlooked area. Their mission, as the "antidote to overtourism," perfectly aligned with the desire to uncover Puglia’s genuine heart.

The story of burrata, a century-old innovation, is as charming as the cheese itself. About a hundred years ago, in the serene, rolling hills outside Andria, a local farmer named Lorenzo Bianchino faced a dilemma. Heavy snowfall had isolated his masseria (farmhouse), preventing him from transporting his fresh milk to market. Rather than letting it spoil, Bianchino, resourceful and steeped in generations of cheesemaking knowledge, revived an old technique for preserving butter. He ingeniously created a casing from stretched mozzarella curd, then filled it with stracciatella – a luscious mixture of cream and mozzarella scraps. He tied the top, creating a delicate, creamy parcel of fresh dairy goodness. This innovative solution not only saved his milk but also birthed burrata (from burro, meaning butter), a cheese that would eventually become a global sensation, renowned for its rich flavour and irresistible texture.

Today, Andria remains the epicentre of burrata production, home to several renowned cheesemakers. Among the most famous is Caseificio Olanda, a family-run dairy that opens its doors to visitors, offering fascinating demonstrations, indulgent tastings, and a small museum tracing the history of local cheesemaking. Late one morning, we had the privilege of observing Riccardo “Dino” Olanda, son of the founders, as he performed his daily magic. His hands, reddened and calloused from years of working with hot curds, moved with a hypnotic rhythm. He plunged the fresh curds into almost-boiling water, then began the meticulous process of stretching and kneading. As he worked, the curds transformed into a smooth, velvety mass. ‘See how it’s shiny?’ he asked, his eyes gleaming with pride. ‘Means it’s ready.’ Working with incredible speed and precision, he expertly squeezed out round lumps between his thumb and forefinger, forming the familiar mozzarella balls. This precise action of tearing or cutting the curd is mozzare, the very verb from which the cheese derives its name. Dino also crafted intricate little knots and plaits of mozzarella before turning his attention to burrata. He took a warm, pliable mozzarella ball, skillfully worked it into a hollow bag with his fingers, then generously filled it with a mixture of fresh cream and stracciatella, before delicately tying the top with string, sealing in its creamy treasure.

The demonstration concluded with a dairy-heavy meal, a glorious indulgence that was utterly worth every calorie and cholesterol point. We began with generous portions of freshly made mozzarella and burrata, their pristine flavour a revelation. This was followed by crusty bread accompanied by chunks of caciocavallo, another exquisite stretched-curd cheese with a more piquant, aged profile. For dessert, heart-shaped fresh ricotta, light and ethereal, served either with sweet strawberry jam or rich cocoa, provided a delicate finish. And, I must confess, Savio was absolutely right. The mozzarella and burrata possessed a juicy, elastic texture and a gorgeous, nuanced cheesy, umami flavour that supermarket versions can only dream of. The subtle saltiness and the richness of the milk, so often leached out by the whey in industrially produced cheeses, remained perfectly balanced here, a testament to their freshness and traditional crafting. The thought of ever settling for a mass-produced "Finest" mozzarella after this authentic experience felt like a culinary betrayal.

Over the next few days, as we ate our way around the province’s diverse restaurants and food producers, a compelling question lingered: Is it because the ingredients are so exceptionally good that this area cultivates so many food obsessives, or is it the other way around? Perhaps it is a symbiotic relationship, where the fertile land and rich seas inspire deep culinary passion, and that passion, in turn, elevates the produce to an art form.

Barletta, Savio’s hometown, sees relatively few foreign tourists, allowing it to maintain its vibrant, authentic Italian character. The town pulses with local life, its streets lined with independent shops rather than global chains. Historically significant, Barletta boasts a formidable Norman castle, a majestic cathedral, and the towering Colossus of Barletta, an ancient bronze statue. Every evening, as the sun dips below the horizon, people pour into the bars, clubs, and gelaterie of the sette strade, seven parallel streets in the old town, creating a lively social hub that feels genuinely Italian and refreshingly untainted by mass tourism.

Down the coast, the picturesque town of Trani, with its stunning sea-facing Romanesque cathedral and charming harbour, attracts a modest number of tourists. Yet, even here, at 7 am, the raw, authentic rhythm of life takes over as the fishing boats return. The grizzled fishermen, their faces etched with the toil of the sea, complain good-naturedly of rough seas and a poor catch, but from the back of their boats, a vibrant, impromptu market quickly forms. Restaurateurs and fishmongers eagerly haggle for the day’s haul: gleaming mullet, wriggling octopus, flat skate, fat sea snails, prized monkfish, and palombo (small shark). Thirtysomething Nicola, a fifth-generation fisher who began helping on the boats at the tender age of six, recounts going out at midday and returning at 3 am. When asked when he sleeps, he simply shrugs and replies, ‘Never.’ His dedication is a powerful illustration of the deep connection between the people of this region and their produce, a link that ensures unparalleled freshness.

We would savour fish later, but today, pizza was the order of the day. Portento in Barletta is helmed by Luigi Lacerenza, a self-proclaimed "food nut" whose enthusiasm is infectious. He insisted we try an array of local antipasti so numerous and exquisite that we were almost too full for the main event. Highlights included a pungent caprino goat’s cheese, whose flavour evoked the green mountains where the goats grazed; grilled caciocavallo sourced from an elderly couple who meticulously craft just six cheeses a week; and various small-batch salamis, each a revelation of artisanal skill. But when the pizzas arrived, we found a new appetite. They were truly wonderful: one generously topped with local sausage, plump olives, earthy oyster mushrooms, and sweet yellow tomatoes; another adorned with tender aubergines and finely grated cacioricotta, a dry, salty ricotta.

Our gastronomic adventure continued inland to Cerignola, west of Barletta, where Rosario Didonna, a former TV standup comedian, used his winnings to transform his family’s traditional deli into U’ Vulèsce (dialect for ‘peckish’), a cosy, wood-panelled restaurant. Rosario embodies the spirit of Puglian hospitality and culinary integrity. He knows his fishers by name, works exclusively with small-scale farmers and independent wine producers, and even invites nonne (grandmothers) from all over southern Italy to demonstrate their cherished family recipes in his kitchen. We began with delicate goat prosciutto and the renowned plum-sized bella di Cerignola olives, celebrated for their mild, buttery flavour. Then came an unforgettable prawn tartare, exquisitely presented in sea urchin shells, followed by hairy crab spaghetti – Rosario proudly declared, ‘the juice is better than lobster!’ – and succulent octopus served with a creamy bean puree, and sea bass accompanied by a vibrant orange mayonnaise. When we tried to thank him for the exceptional meal, he simply waved us off with a beaming smile, exclaiming, ‘I’m doing the best job in the world!’ His passion was palpable, his joy in sharing the bounty of his region infectious.

Nicola Barbera at Masseria Barbera, a farm restaurant nestled within the breathtaking Alta Murgia National Park, is equally inspired, but his passion stems from what grows on his sprawling estate. The farm was founded by his great-great-great-great-grandfather Riccardo, a hero who fought alongside Garibaldi. Nicola, an exuberant host, bounced us around the farm in a jeep, proudly showcasing the source of 90% of the ingredients needed for his 100-cover restaurant. He pointed out ancient olive trees and robust vines, but also the "weeds" growing around them. ‘They’re eatable,’ he declared, grabbing handfuls of peppery wild rocket and bitter but delicate wild chicory, common foraging ingredients in Puglian cuisine. From the abundant kitchen garden, he explained, they cultivate heirloom varieties to make eight distinct types of tomato sauce.

We tucked into a hearty lunch of these farm-fresh ingredients: a savory pie filled with sweet white onions, salty anchovies, and plump sultanas; tender courgettes infused with fresh mint and garlic; and spaghetti tossed in his "bastard sauce" – so named, Nicola joked, because ‘those tomatoes take three times as long to pick.’ Then came something I never thought I’d eat: grilled donkey fillet. While I initially felt a pang of guilt for the patient, mild-tempered beasts, Nicola explained that this is a healthy, low-fat meat, traditionally consumed in the region and never intensively farmed. To my astonishment, it was the best meat I had ever tasted, lean, tender, and incredibly flavourful.

Good food, of course, is made even better by good olive oil, and Puglia is Italy’s largest producer, accounting for roughly 40% of the nation’s output. The region is home to world-class producers like Muraglia, famous for its organic extra virgin olive oil bottled in stunning, hand-painted, rainbow-stripe ceramic bottles – a work of art as much as a culinary staple. Another notable producer is Sabino Leone, which offers tours of its ancient groves and modern oil mill for a nominal fee of €15, culminating in informative and delicious tastings that highlight the diverse flavour profiles of Puglian olive oil.

Beyond the main meals, this area offers plenty of delightful culinary detours. Barletta’s 60-year-old Mosè bakery is revered for its krapfen, a type of filled doughnut, and its perfectly flaky sourdough croissants. They also offer a tempting array of housemade chocolates, artisanal ice-cream, and exquisite cakes, all accompanied by excellent Italian coffee. In Canosa, known as Puglia’s ‘Little Rome’ for its impressive Roman catacombs, temple ruins, and ancient bridge, experts rate Scoop as one of Puglia’s finest gelaterie. Francesco Di Nunno, the master gelato maker, crafts his ice-cream with strictly local and seasonal ingredients: raspberry and strawberry sorbets are available only in early summer, while the sweet percoca yellow peach flavour graces the menu until mid-August, ensuring peak freshness and flavour.

For those seeking refined dining experiences, chef Luciano Matera’s Il Turracciolo in central Andria offers affordable fine dining that elevates traditional Puglian ingredients. Highlights included bright green broad bean and chicory "meatballs," surprisingly flavorful; a playful "hidden mushroom" dish concealed under a baked eggy topping; and delicate pasta discs served with both whole and pureed green beans and peas, showcasing Matera’s innovative touch. In Minervino, a small hilltop town with a population under 8,000, A Sud dell’Anima, led by chef Nadia Tamburrano, delivers food of astonishing quality. Her approach combines modern culinary techniques with hyper-local ingredients, resulting in antipasti that explode with flavour, thanks to her house-cured capers and homemade mustards, syrups, and purees. While a main course of sweetbreads wrapped in intestines might sound adventurous, it proved to be utterly delicious, the intestines rendered crispy as crackling, a bold embrace of traditional Puglian nose-to-tail cooking.

And there is indeed plenty to do between meals to work up that appetite. Barletta was the birthplace of the Italian painter Giuseppe De Nittis, a significant figure who frequented the circles of Degas and Manet and participated in the inaugural Impressionist exhibition in Paris in 1874. Over 200 of his captivating works are now beautifully displayed in the grand 16th-century Palazzo della Marra (€6 entry), offering a glimpse into a lesser-known chapter of Impressionist art. For a unique natural spectacle, Europe’s biggest salt pan, Salina Margherita di Savoia, presents an awe-inspiring expanse of peaceful ponds, home to flamingos and other migratory birds, with a snow-white salt mountain inviting visitors to climb its slopes. Another day brought an exhilarating e-bike ride through the Alta Murgia National Park with Filippo Tito of Cycling ‘n’ Trek. We pedalled through dense forests, eventually peering with awe into an old bauxite mine that dramatically resembled a mini Grand Canyon, a vivid reminder of the region’s diverse geological history. We returned ravenous from our adventures, but in this remarkable corner of northern Puglia, that feeling is not a problem; it’s a blessing, an invitation to indulge once more in its extraordinary culinary bounty.

Where to stay

Until this century, Barletta had limited tourist accommodation, a reflection of its off-the-beaten-path status. Today, a top choice among the few charming B&Bs is Antica Dimora (doubles from €97), a meticulously restored 17th-century palazzo. Run by the warm and welcoming Lilly and Riccardo Manna, it offers three smart, elegantly appointed bedrooms adorned with lush plants. Breakfast is a daily highlight, featuring a rotating selection of different local specialities, ensuring guests experience the authentic flavours of Puglia from the moment they wake.

For a tranquil escape into the Puglian countryside, Lama di Luna (doubles from €230) is an exceptional organic farm. Set amidst deep rural landscapes, it features six beautifully designed rooms arranged around an exquisite 18th-century stone courtyard. This eco-conscious retreat is remarkably energy and water self-sufficient, thanks to its ancient well and modern solar panels. Half of its 200 hectares are left wild, preserving local biodiversity, while the rest are cultivated with olives, vines, almonds, and cherries. Guests can enjoy a private cinema, a well-stocked library, and a large swimming pool, thoughtfully shaded by magnificent 600-year-old olive trees, offering an idyllic blend of luxury and sustainability.

Where (else) to eat

Barletta’s 60-year-old Mosè bakery is a local institution, revered for its exceptional krapfen (light, often cream-filled doughnuts) and exquisitely flaky sourdough croissants, perfect for a morning treat. Beyond these, the bakery crafts an array of housemade chocolates, artisanal ice-cream, and celebration cakes, all served alongside expertly prepared Italian coffee, making it a beloved spot for both locals and discerning visitors.

Puglia is dotted with hundreds of gelaterie, but experts consistently rate Scoop in Canosa as one of the region’s finest. Canosa, affectionately known as Puglia’s ‘Little Rome’ for its impressive catacombs, temple ruins, and ancient Roman bridge, is home to Francesco Di Nunno’s artisanal ice-cream shop. Francesco is dedicated to using only local, seasonal ingredients, meaning that his vibrant raspberry and strawberry sorbets are available exclusively in early summer, and his luscious percoca yellow peach flavour can only be savoured until mid-August, guaranteeing unparalleled freshness and taste.

For an experience in affordable fine dining, chef Luciano Matera’s Il Turracciolo in central Andria stands out. Matera skillfully combines traditional Puglian ingredients with refined culinary techniques. Highlights from my visit included his innovative broad bean and chicory “meatballs,” which were surprisingly flavorful and bright green inside; a playful “hidden mushroom” dish artfully concealed beneath a delicate baked eggy topping; and pasta discs perfectly paired with both whole and pureed green beans and peas, showcasing his subtle yet impactful approach to regional cuisine.

At A Sud dell’Anima, located in the small hilltop town of Minervino (population under 8,000), chef Nadia Tamburrano creates food of astonishing quality. Her cuisine is a testament to the power of hyper-local ingredients elevated by modern techniques. Her antipasti are particularly memorable, exploding with complex flavours thanks to her house-cured capers and homemade mustards, syrups, and purees. While a main course of sweetbreads wrapped in intestines might sound unconventional to some, it proved to be a delicious and adventurous dish, with the intestines rendered perfectly crispy, akin to delicate crackling, a true taste of authentic Puglian culinary heritage.

The trip was organised by Unexpected Italy, which offers personalised itineraries for Barletta and the surrounding area.