Nantes, France As dilemmas go, it’s an unusual one: saddle up a giant squid or board a submersible for a voyage to the bottom of the ocean. In the end, I find myself drawn to a fierce-looking merhorse and tentatively take the reins. High above, my daughter glides by on a flying fish, metallic fins flapping, while her Dad is battling stormy seas at the helm of a huge conch shell. A ride on the Carrousel des Mondes Marins (marine worlds carousel) – a three-storey steampunk merry-go-round inspired by Jules Verne’s seminal novel Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea – is one of the undeniable highlights of a visit to Nantes. More than just a surreal fairground attraction, it stands as a captivating work of art and a profound homage to the city’s most famous son, Jules Verne, offering an experience that is both whimsical and deeply engaging. On the banks of the Loire River, approximately 30 miles from the Atlantic Ocean, Nantes is a city whose fortunes were intrinsically linked to the sea for centuries. It was here, growing up near the bustling docks in the 1830s, that a young Jules Verne dreamed of becoming a ship’s captain. Though that particular ambition remained unfulfilled, his profound wanderlust and fascination with exploration were channeled into an extraordinary literary career, giving birth to iconic novels such as Around the World in 80 Days and Journey to the Centre of the Earth. After the last of Nantes’ shipyards closed in the 1980s, leaving behind a landscape of abandoned quays and warehouses on the Île de Nantes, Verne’s unique vision provided the perfect inspiration for a radical art and urban regeneration project: Les Machines de l’Île. This ambitious initiative, spearheaded by François Delarozière and Pierre Orefice and their La Machine company, has successfully breathed new life into the former industrial heartland, transforming it into a vibrant cultural landmark that merges engineering, art, and theatrical performance. This revitalized river island is now the stomping ground of the Grand Éléphant, a monumental 12-meter-high mechanical pachyderm that majestically carries passengers on tours, delighting bystanders with playful sprays of water from its trunk. Having seen countless photographs, nothing truly prepares you for the sheer thrill of turning a corner and witnessing this magnificent creation lumbering towards you, a true marvel of kinetic sculpture. Visitors can delve deeper into the magic behind the machinery at the nearby Galerie des Machines, where the ingenious creators bring a captivating mechanical menagerie of strange and wonderful creatures to life, showcasing the intricate design and craftsmanship involved in their construction. The enduring Verne connection also inspired the name of the city’s renowned summer arts festival, Le Voyage à Nantes. From July to September, this festival transforms the city’s streets, parks, and public spaces into an expansive open-air art gallery, attracting both locals and international visitors. Our visit happily coincided with the festival’s opening weekend, and the elegant squares and avenues of the Graslin district were abuzz with activity: DJ sets, enticing food stalls, and eager crowds exploring the new artworks. In the Place Graslin, a beautiful neoclassical square built – like much of Nantes – from the distinctive chalky-white tuffeau stone from the Loire valley, a dramatic, almost cataclysmic eruption had been conjured in front of the ornate opera house. Here, huge ammonites appeared to have been violently forced up from beneath the earth, engulfing cars in a mountain of rubble, their doors wide open, radios eerily playing, as though abandoned in haste during an apocalyptic event. Just yards away, children joyfully played in the dancing water fountains of the square, seemingly oblivious, while the white-aproned waiters of the exquisite art nouveau brasserie La Cigale gracefully weaved through the pavement tables, delivering fresh seafood platters to diners unfazed by the surreal, apocalyptic scene unfolding before them. Titled Fossil Opera by artist Théo Mercier, this thought-provoking installation serves as a powerful commentary on consumerism, geological time, and the fleeting nature of human endeavor. It is just one of about a dozen such site-specific installations that appear in the city as if by magic each summer, creating a dynamic and ever-changing urban landscape. Even outside the vibrant summer months, Nantes, France’s sixth-largest city, offers a wealth of discoveries. Each year, a select handful of the festival installations are chosen to become permanent fixtures, resulting in an impressive and continually growing collection of contemporary public art. This includes iconic works such as Les Anneaux, a series of 18 giant steel rings on the Quai des Antilles that elegantly frame views of the Loire and light up dramatically at night, and Tadashi Kawamata’s Belvédère de l’Hermitage, a breathtaking viewing platform inspired by a swallow’s nest, which juts dramatically over a sheer cliff, offering panoramic vistas of the city and river. All of these cultural highlights, both ancient and modern, are seamlessly linked by the Ligne Verte (Green Line), a distinctive 12-mile (20km) green line painted directly on the pavement, guiding visitors through the city’s treasures. We followed this unique trail through the Passage Pommeraye, an exquisite 19th-century glass-roofed shopping arcade that is a masterpiece of architectural elegance; past the imposing Château des ducs de Bretagne, a magnificent moated 15th-century castle that served as the historic residence of the Dukes of Brittany; stopped off at the excellent Musée d’arts de Nantes, which houses an impressive collection of international art spanning seven centuries, from old masters to contemporary works; and finished up at the peaceful Jardin des Plantes, a charming and free botanical garden that is home to a handful of modern art installations and a delightful cafe. From here, it’s a short stroll to the Lieu Unique, a vibrant cultural space and concert venue housed within the historic factory that once produced the city’s beloved buttery LU biscuits, a testament to Nantes’ industrial past and creative present. And there’s even more innovation on the horizon. The Jardin Extraordinaire is a newly created garden and climbing wall in a disused granite quarry in the Bas-Chantenay district. Its exotic planting, dramatic waterfall, and inviting paddling pools were directly inspired by descriptions in Jules Verne’s novel, The Mysterious Island. The nearby Chantenay docks have been creatively colonized by artist studios, music spaces, and the Little Atlantique Brewery, which is housed in a beautifully repurposed 19th-century former oil mill. Opposite the quarry, a derelict industrial building is currently undergoing a transformative renovation into a new riverside cultural hub, the Cité des Imaginaires, which will eventually provide a permanent and expanded home for the Jules Verne Museum. This is an ambitious project: creative, unconventional, and resolutely forward-looking, perfectly embodying the spirit of Nantes. I am confident that Jules Verne himself would wholeheartedly approve of this imaginative evolution of his hometown. Basel, Switzerland Unless you’re a professional who makes their annual pilgrimage to the prestigious Art Basel fair, chances are Switzerland’s third-largest city might have slipped under your radar – or rather, you may have simply passed it by. Basel is just one stop before Zurich on the fast train from Paris, but to whiz through would be a profound mistake. For discerning art and design lovers, it is an absolutely perfect city to explore on a long weekend, offering a rich tapestry of cultural experiences. Basel proudly bills itself as “the city of art and culture on the Rhine,” and it more than lives up to this boast. A leisurely stroll around the charming old town reveals a meticulously preserved historical core, where you can marvel at the imposing Basel Minster, a red sandstone cathedral with its twin spires dominating the skyline, before enjoying a refreshing cold beer at one of the many inviting riverside cafes. Should temperatures soar, you might even want to join local residents with a refreshing dip in the swift currents of the Rhine, a beloved summer tradition that epitomizes the city’s laid-back charm. Once you’ve soaked in the historic ambiance, it’s time to fully engage with the area’s exceptional art offerings. Within the city proper, the world-renowned Kunstmuseum Basel holds an astounding collection of more than 300,000 works spanning eight centuries, featuring masterpieces by global titans such as Monet, Van Gogh, and Warhol. Meanwhile, Museum Tinguely is a unique institution dedicated to the whimsical and thought-provoking work of the idiosyncratic Swiss sculptor Jean Tinguely, whose dada-esque mechanical machines are a joy to behold. However, the two undisputed highlights for art and design enthusiasts are located just on the outskirts of the city. The Fondation Beyeler, nestled in the picturesque suburb of Riehen, houses an impressive collection of modern and contemporary art within a stunning Renzo Piano-designed building, and consistently hosts blockbuster exhibitions (currently showcasing the acclaimed work of Pierre Huyghe). A short and convenient bus or train ride across the German border in Weil am Rhein brings you to the Vitra Design Museum, home to one of the world’s largest and most significant permanent exhibitions of modern furniture design, a true mecca for anyone interested in industrial aesthetics. Before you even step inside to admire the iconic furniture collection, take an immersive walk around the sprawling Vitra Campus itself, which is an architectural marvel. Here, you can marvel at the main museum building designed by the legendary Frank Gehry, a deconstructivist masterpiece; the Vitra Schaudepot – which impressively houses the vast furniture collection – designed by the acclaimed Swiss firm Herzog & de Meuron; Zaha Hadid’s dynamic former fire station, an early and iconic example of her groundbreaking style; and Tadao Ando’s serene conference centre, a testament to minimalist concrete aesthetics. The campus also features a beautiful and meticulously curated garden by the celebrated Dutch landscape designer Piet Oudolf, known for his naturalistic planting schemes, and the recently added Doshi Retreat, a tranquil space for quiet reflection designed by the late, great Indian architect Balkrishna Doshi, his first completed project outside India and the last he worked on before his passing in 2023. Exploring the Vitra campus alone can easily consume half a day. Once inside, delving into the Schaudepot is akin to walking through a giant, exquisitely curated doll’s house, with rooms filled with instantly recognizable furniture icons spanning from the 19th century to the present day. This comprehensive collection includes groundbreaking works by visionary designers such as Verner Panton, Le Corbusier, Alvar Aalto, and the influential duo Charles and Ray Eames. The museum also regularly stages insightful temporary exhibitions that explore various facets of design history and contemporary trends. And if all of that intellectual stimulation has left you pleasantly exhausted, head to the inviting VitraHaus Café, which serves a delicious and well-deserved lunch, providing a perfect conclusion to your design pilgrimage. Lübeck, Germany Unless you’ve delved into Buddenbrooks, Thomas Mann’s monumental epic family saga, you may not have heard of Lübeck. Yet, in the Middle Ages, this strategically important port city in Germany, located just 70km north-east of Hamburg, was one of the richest and most powerful urban centers on Earth. Today, despite the devastating efforts of the RAF to destroy it in 1942, it remarkably remains a beautifully intact medieval gem, a testament to its enduring spirit and architectural heritage. The old town of Lübeck is a designated UNESCO World Heritage site, a prestigious recognition of its outstanding universal value. It sits majestically on an island in the very heart of the city, gracefully encircled by the meandering rivers Trave and Wakenitz. These waterways provide an excellent starting point for exploration. My boyfriend and I opted to hire an electric boat (€49 for up to six people) and spent a delightful hour circumnavigating the island, gazing in awe at its distinctive skyline dominated by seven towering church spires, each telling a story of centuries past. Back on dry land, we embarked on an informative guided walking tour, commencing at the imposing – if famously wonky – Holsten Gate. This iconic brick Gothic gate, a symbol of Lübeck, leans noticeably due to the marshy ground it was built upon, adding to its unique charm. We took in the five magnificent red brick churches to which the spires belong (two of which boast double spires), and bravely climbed one of them, St Petri’s viewing tower, which rewarded us with breathtaking panoramic views across the entire historic cityscape and beyond. We also made a significant stop at the 800-year-old town hall on the bustling marketplace, a masterpiece of medieval secular architecture. But just as fascinating as the grand Gothic splendor was what lay hidden behind it. At one time, there were an astonishing 180 hidden alleyways and courtyards threaded through the old town, a unique urban planning feature. Today, about 80 of these labyrinthine lanes remain. Originally built behind the grand mansions of wealthy merchants to house the city’s working poor, these spaces have been beautifully restored. Their flower-filled, cobbled alleys, now highly sought-after, are an absolute charm to explore, offering glimpses into a bygone era and a quiet respite from the main thoroughfares. To better understand Lübeck’s illustrious past, we visited the European Hansemuseum, housed within the historic old castle monastery. This impressive museum masterfully tells the compelling story of the Hanseatic League, the powerful medieval trade network that stretched from England to Russia and bestowed upon Lübeck its immense wealth and its esteemed status as “the Queen of the League.” It vividly chronicles the economic power, political influence, and cultural exchange facilitated by this mercantile alliance, which allowed Lübeck to maintain its status as a free city state right up until 1937. In a nearby elegant palace, the Museum Behnhaus Drägerhaus showcases a captivating collection of 19th- and early 20th-century German and European art, including significant works by the Norwegian master Edvard Munch, who notably visited Lübeck and captured its distinctive salt warehouses in his paintings. Just around the corner is the Günter Grass-Haus, a cultural institution dedicated to the Nobel laureate Günter Grass, who regularly stayed in Lübeck and passed away there in 2015, deepening the city’s literary connections. We visited in June during the vibrant HanseKulturFestival, a lively event when the quarter around St Jakob’s church was transformed into a bustling hub of live music stages, tempting food stalls, and convivial outdoor bars. While the next major festival isn’t until 2028, Lübeck offers annual museum, theatre, and literature nights, as well as regular popup live music events throughout the summer, ensuring a vibrant cultural calendar. Lübeck also boasts three natural open-air swimming areas, including one conveniently located on the island itself, offering refreshing dips during warmer months. And for those craving the sea, the Baltic coast isn’t far away – we enjoyed a delightful day trip to Travemünde, a historic resort town boasting miles of pristine sandy beach. We took a scenic river ferry there, a leisurely 90-minute journey that offered picturesque views, and returned by a quick 20-minute train ride, perfectly blending relaxation with efficiency. In the old town, the medieval Schiffergesellschaft (Seafarers’ Guild) building now operates as a traditional Hanseatic restaurant, famous for its long communal tables that encourage convivial dining. Alongside classic North Sea fish and hearty Holstein meat dishes, the menu also features creative vegetarian versions of labskaus, a traditional northern German hash, demonstrating a modern twist on historical cuisine. Sadly, we couldn’t visit the Buddenbrookhaus, the museum dedicated to Thomas Mann’s seminal novel, as it is currently undergoing extensive renovation. It is expected to reopen in 2030, which provides ample time to read Mann’s magnificent 864-page doorstopper. Like Lübeck itself, it is an endeavor well worth the effort. Parma, Italy Parma is strategically located just far enough off Italy’s main tourist routes to deter the overwhelming crowds that often flood popular destinations like Venice and Florence. Most travelers reach this tranquil Italian gem by flying into Milan or Bologna, followed by a convenient hour-long train ride. It is undeniably worth that modest extra effort, as I discovered a city that perfectly ticks every box for a captivating weekend getaway: fabulous museums and breathtaking frescoed churches that can be explored without enduring long queues or the need to book a timeslot weeks in advance; charming, friendly, and affordable trattorie and osterie showcasing a veritable feast of local food and wines; and, if you time your visit just right, the enchanting chance to catch an opera composed by the locally born maestro Giuseppe Verdi in the intimate and acoustically superb Teatro Regio. The historic center of Parma is delightfully compact and easily explored on foot, leading visitors past an array of architectural masterpieces at every turn. I began my exploration at the grand Piazza Duomo, dominated by the imposing 900-year-old Romanesque cathedral. Here, everyone’s gaze is instinctively drawn upwards to the ornate cupola, adorned with a captivating illusionist fresco, Assumption of the Virgin, by the local Renaissance master Antonio da Correggio, a work of breathtaking celestial beauty. Next to the cathedral stands the early Gothic Battistero, an octagonal baptistery whose bare, minimalist pink marble exterior starkly contrasts with an incredible explosion of vibrant colors from the 13th- and 14th-century paintings that completely cover its awe-inspiring interior. Then, tucked away discreetly behind the Duomo, I stumbled upon the serene entrance of the medieval Monastero di San Giovanni Evangelista, whose tranquil cloisters and peaceful garden offer a welcome oasis of calm amidst the urban bustle. Entry to both the monastery and the cathedral is refreshingly free, allowing for unhurried appreciation. Parma’s single biggest must-see attraction is the monumental Palazzo della Pilotta, a sprawling Baroque complex housing an impressive array of palatial museums, a magnificent library, and a remarkable 400-year-old wooden theatre, all conveniently included in a single €18 entry ticket. Situated just by the Parma River that gracefully slices the city into two, the palazzo was originally built by the powerful Farnese family, whose extensive patronage during the Renaissance and Baroque periods was instrumental in creating most of the city’s enduring artistic and architectural monuments. The Teatro Farnese, constructed almost entirely of wood, is rarely used as an active venue today, but a visit remains an incredibly immersive and atmospheric experience, transporting you back to the grandeur of 17th-century court life. I allocated most of my sightseeing time, however, to the Pilotta’s landmark Galleria Nazionale di Parma, a true treasure trove of old master paintings. While it may not quite rival the sheer scale of the Uffizi’s collection, I immensely enjoyed the rare opportunity to simply turn up without booking in advance and quietly appreciate exquisite works by Leonardo da Vinci, Fra Angelico, Canaletto, and Tintoretto without being jostled by crowds, allowing for a more personal and reflective encounter with art. Sightseeing, however, is only one part of Parma’s undeniable attraction, as this city is widely recognized as one of Italy’s undisputed food capitals. I walked into the rustic, boisterous OsteMagno bar, where everyone was enthusiastically tucking into tagliere – generous wooden boards piled high with razor-thin slices of the world-famous cured ham, prosciutto crudo di Parma, alongside exquisite artisan salami and crumbly, aged Parmigiano Reggiano cheese. These delectable offerings were accompanied by a glass of the local’s favorite tipple, fizzy red Lambrusco wine, which I found to be far more drinkable and refreshing than I had anticipated, challenging preconceived notions about sparkling reds. This is not a city to seek out ultra-chic, Michelin-starred gourmet restaurants, but rather one to embrace the charm and authenticity of its many traditional trattorie. Establishments like Da Antonia, whose eponymous owner has overseen the cucina for over 50 years, ensuring consistent quality and heartfelt cooking, or the venerable 120-year-old Trattoria Corrieri, are celebrated for serving up generous plates of homemade pasta – from delicate tortelli d’erbetta to rich anolini in brodo – for remarkably affordable prices, often less than €15 per dish. Parma truly offers a culinary journey into the heart of Emilia-Romagna, where tradition and flavor reign supreme. Santander, Spain Often dismissed as little more than a ferry terminal – a convenient overnight stop for those traveling with pets to Europe or seeking to lower their carbon footprint – the vibrant port city of Santander is currently undergoing a remarkable cultural renaissance. Already blessed with a spectacular natural bay facing the majestic Cantabrian mountains, expansive sandy beaches, grand, colonnaded plazas, and superb regional cuisine, the imminent opening of new art spaces and museums in the coming months is poised to firmly place the Cantabrian capital on the global weekend-break map. Leading this cultural charge on September 8th is Faro Santander – a breathtaking new cultural center housed within a grand historical building. This institution will showcase a significant 1,000-piece art collection belonging to Banco Santander, featuring masterpieces by Spanish and European giants including Velázquez, Goya, Titian, Rubens, and Picasso, with different parts of the collection rotating for public display. With its ornate white facade gracefully facing the bay, the Pereda building was previously the bank’s headquarters, but has been meticulously transformed into a striking, 21st-century museum space by the Pritzker prize-winning British architect David Chipperfield, blending historical grandeur with contemporary design. Santander’s moment in the international spotlight will extend even further into 2027 when Madrid’s world-renowned Reina Sofía Museum opens its very first outpost outside the capital. This new branch will be set in a similarly grand neo-Renaissance building, just a few meters away from Faro Santander. This significant museum will house the Archivo Lafuente, an invaluable collection of paintings, sculptures, and manuscripts, including major collections on Dadaism and the Spanish Civil War, as well as an extensive array of art from Spain, North America, and Latin America, solidifying Santander’s position as a major cultural destination. Faro Santander and Archivo Lafuente will form two crucial points on what is emerging as a kind of “art triangle,” along with architect Renzo Piano’s iconic 2017 Centro Botín contemporary art center, located just across the road. With a bijou but impressively curated permanent collection, including works by Matisse, Juan Gris, Joaquín Sorolla, and Mark Rothko, the Centro Botín sits gracefully on the waterfront like a giant, stilt-mounted, 1960s alarm clock sawn in half, its distinctive architecture a landmark in itself. This triumvirate of institutions, driven by the Botín Foundation, marks a strategic and ambitious cultural development for the city. Spaniards, particularly the well-heeled Madrileños, cottoned on to Santander’s charms long ago. The seafront is lined with elegant fin-de-siècle villas, built when the city’s refreshing Atlantic breezes offered the perfect respite from the infernal summer heat of the Spanish capital. More than 100 years later, as Britain experienced its own heatwave, I followed their discerning lead. Temperatures in Santander were a balmy high 20s as I ambled past toddlers building intricate sandcastles and teenagers frolicking in the surf on El Sardinero beach, a magnificent stretch of golden sand just a 15-minute bus ride from the city center. The city center itself is wonderfully walkable, exuding an unhurried, laid-back vibe in its wide streets, grand plazas, and narrow alleys near the historic Gothic cathedral. These lanes are lined with inviting bars serving delicious pinchos – the Cantabrian equivalent to tapas, often featuring exquisite local seafood and fresh ingredients. After tucking into tender, perfectly grilled squid, generously laced with gutsy garlic and fragrant olive oil, at Mesón Rampalay on a leafy square, I spent a fascinating couple of hours at Mupac – the Museum of Prehistory and Archaeology of Cantabria, located just a few minutes’ walk from Faro Santander. The museum, which is home to one of Spain’s most important prehistoric collections, features excellent interactive displays that bring ancient history to life. In 2027, Mupac is set to move into a brand new, multimillion-euro building, further enhancing its capacity to showcase the region’s rich archaeological heritage. By next year, it seems, Santander will not just be the capital of Cantabria, but unequivocally a capital of culture too, inviting visitors to discover its unique blend of natural beauty, historical depth, and burgeoning artistic dynamism. Post navigation A slow travel success story in Slovenia’s secret valley Dorset’s take on the Mediterranean.
