Under-the-radar city breaks for art, food and fun.

Nantes, France: Where Jules Verne’s Imagination Soars

Stepping into Nantes is akin to entering a vibrant, fantastical realm, a city where the boundary between reality and imagination blurs, largely thanks to the enduring legacy of its most famous son, Jules Verne. Faced with the delightful quandary of mounting a colossal mechanical squid or venturing into the deep via submersible, I invariably find myself drawn to the spirited merhorse, its intricate clockwork mechanism whirring softly as I tentatively grasp the reins. Above, my daughter, eyes wide with wonder, gracefully navigates the air on a flying fish, its metallic fins catching the sunlight, while her father valiantly steers a colossal conch shell through a simulated tempest. This exhilarating ride is on the Carrousel des Mondes Marins – a breathtaking three-story steampunk merry-go-round, a direct homage to Verne’s seminal novel, Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea. It’s more than just a fairground attraction; it’s a living work of art, a whimsical journey, and an irresistible dose of fun for all ages.

Nantes, strategically positioned on the banks of the Loire river, a mere 30 miles from the Atlantic coast, built its historical fortunes upon maritime trade and shipbuilding. It was here, amidst the bustling docks of the 1830s, that a young Jules Verne nurtured dreams of becoming a ship’s captain. Though that particular ambition remained unfulfilled, it ignited an unparalleled series of imaginative voyages, his insatiable wanderlust channeled into literary masterpieces like Around the World in 80 Days and Journey to the Centre of the Earth. While Nantes’ last shipyards ceased operation in the 1980s, Verne’s visionary spirit refused to be anchored. It provided the impetus for a radical urban regeneration and art project, Les Machines de l’île, which has spectacularly revitalized the industrial wasteland of the Île de Nantes, the river island that once pulsed with the city’s maritime heart.

This reimagined island is now the domain of the awe-inspiring Grand Éléphant, a monumental 12-meter-high mechanical pachyderm that majestically transports passengers on tours, delighting bystanders with playful sprays of water from its trunk. Photographs scarcely prepare you for the sheer exhilaration of turning a corner and witnessing this magnificent beast lumbering towards you, a living, breathing testament to mechanical artistry. The magic behind these extraordinary machines is revealed at the nearby Galerie des Machines, an interactive workshop where the ingenious creators bring a wondrous mechanical menagerie of strange and intricate creatures to life, offering a fascinating glimpse into the fusion of art, engineering, and storytelling.

The Verne connection extends its influence to the city’s renowned summer arts festival, Le Voyage à Nantes. This annual event, running from July to September, transforms Nantes’ streets, parks, and public spaces into an expansive open-air art gallery. My visit coincided with the festival’s vibrant opening weekend, where the elegant squares and avenues of the Graslin district buzzed with energy – DJ sets pulsating, enticing food stalls wafting aromas, and crowds eagerly discovering the latest ephemeral artworks. In the stately Place Graslin, a beautiful square constructed, like much of Nantes, from the distinctive chalky-white tuffeau stone of the Loire valley, a truly cataclysmic scene had been conjured before the grand opera house. Titled "Fossil Opera" by artist Théo Mercier, immense ammonites appeared to have erupted from beneath the earth, engulfing cars in a dramatic mountain of rubble, their doors agape, radios eerily playing, as if abandoned in a moment of frantic escape. This striking installation, a potent commentary on consumerism and the transient nature of human endeavor, was one of about a dozen site-specific artworks that materialized across the city, as if by pure magic.

Yet, even beyond the summer festival’s ephemeral wonders, Nantes offers a rich tapestry of discovery. Each year, a select few festival installations are chosen to become permanent fixtures, cultivating an impressive collection of contemporary public art. Among these are Les Anneaux, a series of 18 giant steel rings along the Quai des Antilles, which elegantly frame views of the Loire and dramatically illuminate at night, and Tadashi Kawamata’s Belvédère de l’Hermitage, a breathtaking viewing platform inspired by a swallow’s nest, precariously jutting over a sheer cliff face, offering unparalleled panoramic vistas.

All these cultural highlights, both historic and contemporary, are seamlessly connected by the Ligne Verte (Green Line), a distinctive 12-mile (20km) green stripe painted directly on the pavement, serving as an intuitive and artistic guide for exploration. Following this unique trail, visitors are led through the exquisite Passage Pommeraye, a magnificent 19th-century glass-roofed shopping arcade; past the imposing Château des ducs de Bretagne, a moated 15th-century castle steeped in regional history; to the excellent Musée d’arts de Nantes, which boasts an impressive collection of international art spanning seven centuries. The journey concludes at the tranquil Jardin des Plantes, a charming and free botanical garden that also hosts a handful of modern art installations and a delightful cafe. From here, it’s a short stroll to the Lieu Unique, a dynamic cultural space and concert venue housed within the former factory that once produced the city’s beloved buttery LU biscuits.

Nantes continues its ambitious trajectory into the future with projects like the Jardin Extraordinaire, a newly created garden and climbing wall nestled within a disused granite quarry in the Bas-Chantenay district. Its exotic planting, cascading waterfall, and inviting paddling pools are directly inspired by descriptions in Verne’s novel, The Mysterious Island. The nearby Chantenay docks have undergone a vibrant transformation, now colonized by artists’ studios, music spaces, and the Little Atlantique Brewery, a craft brewery housed in a beautifully restored 19th-century former oil mill. Opposite the quarry, a derelict industrial building is currently being transformed into the ambitious Cité des Imaginaires, a new riverside cultural hub destined to provide a home for an expanded Jules Verne museum. This ambitious project epitomizes Nantes’ creative, unconventional, and forward-looking spirit – a vision that would undoubtedly earn the enthusiastic approval of Jules Verne himself.

Joanne O’Connor’s trip was supported by Le Voyage à Nantes. Oceania Hôtel de France, just off the Place Graslin, offers air-conditioned doubles from €101 room-only. Winter’s Journey, a seasonal festival of concerts, temporary light installations, artworks, and gastronomic events, runs from 21 November to 3 January.

Basel, Switzerland: A Tri-National Hub of Art and Design

For many, Switzerland’s third-largest city, Basel, might seem like a mere waypoint, a fleeting glimpse from the window of a high-speed train en route to Zurich from Paris. However, to bypass this vibrant metropolis would be to miss a profoundly enriching experience, particularly for enthusiasts of art and design. Basel proudly champions itself as “the city of art and culture on the Rhine,” a boast it lives up to with remarkable conviction. Its unique geographical position at the crossroads of Switzerland, Germany, and France has imbued it with a cosmopolitan flair and a concentration of cultural institutions that rivals much larger cities.

A leisurely stroll through the charming Old Town reveals centuries of history, from the striking red sandstone architecture of the Basel Minster, with its twin spires and Romanesque-Gothic fusion, to the colourful medieval houses lining the narrow cobbled streets. After marveling at the cathedral’s intricate details and panoramic views from its terrace, one can easily settle into one of the many inviting cafes for a refreshing cold beer. Should the temperatures soar during summer, a unique local tradition beckons: joining the residents for a refreshing dip in the mighty Rhine, floating gently downstream with a waterproof bag for belongings, a truly quintessential Basel experience.

Once the historical and scenic charms have been absorbed, it’s time to delve into the region’s formidable artistic offerings. Within the city proper, the Kunstmuseum Basel stands as a cornerstone of European art history, housing an encyclopedic collection of over 300,000 works spanning eight centuries. Its hallowed halls showcase masterpieces by artistic giants such as Monet, Van Gogh, and Warhol, alongside a rich collection of Old Masters, Renaissance art, and Swiss modernism, making it one of the oldest public art collections in the world. In stark contrast, the Museum Tinguely is a joyous celebration of the idiosyncratic Swiss sculptor Jean Tinguely, whose dada-esque kinetic machines whir, clang, and clatter, inviting visitors into a playful and thought-provoking world of art in motion.

However, the true draws for many international visitors lie just beyond the city limits. The Fondation Beyeler, nestled in the picturesque suburb of Riehen, is a testament to modern and contemporary art. Housed in a minimalist, light-filled building designed by Renzo Piano, the museum’s impressive permanent collection includes works by Cézanne, Van Gogh, Picasso, and Rothko, and consistently hosts blockbuster temporary exhibitions that attract global attention, such as the current retrospective on Pierre Huyghe, offering a deep dive into contemporary artistic discourse.

A short bus or train ride across the German border, in Weil am Rhein, lies another architectural and design mecca: the Vitra Design Museum. This institution is home to one of the world’s largest and most significant permanent exhibitions of modern furniture design, tracing the evolution of seating, lighting, and everyday objects from the 19th century to the present day. But the museum itself is only part of the experience. The Vitra Campus is an architectural pilgrimage site, a living anthology of contemporary architecture where visitors can marvel at structures designed by some of the most celebrated names in the field. Frank Gehry’s deconstructivist main museum building is an early icon, while Herzog & de Meuron’s Vitra Schaudepot – a striking brick structure housing the furniture collection – provides a more sober contrast. Zaha Hadid’s dynamic former fire station showcases her signature fluid forms, and Tadao Ando’s serene concrete conference pavilion exemplifies his mastery of light and shadow. Beyond the buildings, the campus is graced by a beautiful perennial garden designed by the acclaimed Dutch landscape architect Piet Oudolf, and the recently added Doshi Retreat, a tranquil space for quiet reflection designed by the late Indian architect Balkrishna Doshi, marking his first completed project outside India and one of his last works.

After immersing oneself in this architectural wonderland, the journey inside the Schaudepot is a captivating experience. It feels akin to wandering through a giant doll’s house, each "room" filled with instantly recognizable furniture icons from the functional elegance of the Bauhaus to the avant-garde designs of Verner Panton, Le Corbusier, Alvar Aalto, and the groundbreaking works of Charles and Ray Eames. The museum also regularly curates temporary exhibitions that delve into specific design movements, designers, or themes. If all this intellectual and aesthetic stimulation leaves you feeling pleasantly exhausted, the VitraHaus Café offers a delicious lunch in a beautifully designed setting, providing the perfect conclusion to a truly inspiring visit.

Max Benato’s trip included accommodation at the Volkshaus, a boutique hotel in the old town, with doubles from 152 Swiss francs (£138) room-only.

Lübeck, Germany: The Queen of the Hanseatic League

For those unfamiliar with Thomas Mann’s epic family saga, Buddenbrooks, the name Lübeck might not immediately resonate. Yet, in the annals of medieval European history, this port city in northern Germany, approximately 70km northeast of Hamburg, reigned supreme as one of the wealthiest and most powerful urban centers on Earth. Today, remarkably preserved despite significant damage during World War II, it remains a beautifully intact medieval gem, a testament to its enduring legacy.

The Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is uniquely situated on an island, embraced by the tranquil waters of the rivers Trave and Wakenitz. This aquatic embrace makes a boat trip an ideal starting point for exploration. My boyfriend and I opted for an electric boat (€49 for up to six people), spending a delightful hour circumnavigating the island, admiring its distinctive silhouette punctuated by seven majestic church spires. The gentle current offered unique perspectives of the red-brick Gothic architecture that defines the city.

Back on solid ground, we embarked on a guided walking tour, commencing at the iconic, albeit famously "wonky," Holsten Gate. This imposing brick structure, with its two massive towers leaning slightly, is a symbol of Lübeck’s former power and now houses a museum. Our tour led us past the five grand red-brick churches (two boasting double spires) that dominate the skyline, each a masterpiece of North German Brick Gothic. We ascended St Petri’s viewing tower, rewarding us with a breathtaking panoramic vista of the city’s terracotta rooftops, winding waterways, and the distant Baltic Sea. The 800-year-old Town Hall, a complex and impressive structure on the marketplace, further underscored Lübeck’s historical administrative and commercial might.

Yet, beyond the grand public buildings, a more intimate and equally fascinating aspect of Lübeck’s past lies hidden: its labyrinthine alleyways and courtyards (Gänge and Höfe). At one time, over 180 such passages threaded through the Old Town; today, approximately 80 remain. These charming, cobbled lanes were originally built behind the grand mansions of wealthy merchants to provide housing for the less affluent members of society. Today, these restored cottages are highly sought-after, and the flower-filled alleys offer a delightful journey back in time, a peaceful counterpoint to the city’s bustling thoroughfares.

To truly grasp Lübeck’s profound historical significance, a visit to the European Hansemuseum, housed in the old castle monastery, is essential. This award-winning museum vividly tells the story of the Hanseatic League, the powerful medieval trade network that stretched from England to Russia, and which was the source of Lübeck’s immense wealth and its status as the "Queen of the League." The museum’s interactive exhibits and meticulously recreated scenes bring to life the complex politics, daring voyages, and daily lives of a bygone era.

In a nearby palace, the Museum Behnhaus Drägerhaus showcases 19th- and early 20th-century German and European art, including significant works by Edvard Munch, who was a frequent visitor to Lübeck and famously depicted its iconic salt warehouses. Just around the corner is the Günter Grass-Haus, a museum dedicated to the Nobel laureate Günter Grass, who regularly stayed in Lübeck and made it his home until his death in 2015, celebrating his literary contributions.

Our visit in June coincided with the HanseKulturFestival, transforming the quarter around St Jakob’s church into a vibrant hub of live music stages, tempting food stalls, and convivial outdoor bars. While the next major HanseKulturFestival isn’t until 2028, Lübeck hosts a variety of annual cultural events, including dedicated museum, theatre, and literature nights, and spontaneous popup live music performances throughout the summer, ensuring a lively atmosphere year-round.

Beyond its cultural riches, Lübeck offers abundant opportunities for relaxation and outdoor enjoyment. The city boasts three natural open-air swimming areas, including one conveniently located on the island itself. For a delightful seaside escape, the historic resort town of Travemünde is easily accessible. We enjoyed a scenic 90-minute river ferry trip there, savoring the views before returning by a swift 20-minute train, enjoying miles of sandy beach and classic German resort charm.

Dining in Lübeck is a journey through Hanseatic culinary traditions. The medieval Schiffergesellschaft (Seafarers’ Guild) is now a renowned traditional Hanseatic restaurant, famed for its long communal tables and maritime decor. Here, alongside delectable North Sea fish and hearty Holstein meat dishes, one can find vegetarian interpretations of labskaus, a traditional Northern German hash, offering a taste of local heritage.

Regrettably, the Buddenbrookhaus, the museum dedicated to Thomas Mann’s seminal novel and his family, was undergoing renovation during our visit, with an anticipated reopening in 2030. This provides ample time, however, to delve into Mann’s 864-page masterpiece, a literary journey that, much like Lübeck itself, is profoundly rewarding and well worth the effort.

Rachel Dixon’s trip was provided by germany.travel and luebeck-tourismus.de. Accommodation was provided by Liho Lübeck, with doubles from £73 room-only.

Parma, Italy: A Culinary and Artistic Gem

Parma, often overlooked by the throngs of tourists flocking to Italy’s more celebrated cities like Venice and Florence, exists in a tranquil space just far enough off the main travel routes to retain its authentic charm. Most travelers arrive via an hour’s train ride from Milan or Bologna, an extra effort that is undeniably rewarded. I discovered a city that perfectly encapsulates the essence of an Italian weekend getaway: exquisite museums and frescoed churches, refreshingly free of long queues or the need for advance bookings; warm, affordable trattorie and osterie serving an abundance of local food and wines; and, for those fortunate enough to time their visit right, the chance to experience an opera composed by the locally born maestro Giuseppe Verdi in the intimate setting of the Teatro Regio.

Parma’s historic center is compact and wonderfully walkable, allowing for effortless exploration of its architectural masterpieces. My journey began at the grand Piazza Duomo, dominated by the imposing 900-year-old Romanesque Cathedral. The interior is a feast for the eyes, with all gazes inevitably drawn upwards to the magnificent ornate cupola, adorned with a captivating illusionist fresco by the local Renaissance artist Antonio da Correggio, a masterpiece of perspective and ethereal beauty. Adjacent to the Cathedral stands the early Gothic Battistero, an octagonal baptistery crafted from the distinctive pink marble of Verona. Its bare, minimalist exterior starkly contrasts with the incredible explosion of colors from the 13th- and 14th-century paintings that adorn its interior, creating an almost spiritual glow. Tucked away behind the Duomo, I stumbled upon the entrance of the medieval Monastero di San Giovanni Evangelista, whose serene cloisters and verdant garden offer a peaceful oasis amidst the city’s gentle bustle. Entry to both the monastery and cathedral is free, a rare and welcome treat.

Parma’s unequivocal must-see is the monumental Palazzo della Pilotta, a sprawling Baroque complex housing a collection of palatial museums, a historical library, and the remarkable 400-year-old Farnese Theatre, all accessible with a single €18 entry ticket. Situated gracefully by the Parma river, which gently divides the city, the palazzo was a testament to the patronage of the powerful Farnese family, whose influence shaped many of the city’s Renaissance monuments. The Teatro Farnese, constructed almost entirely of wood, is a breathtaking architectural marvel, a grand horseshoe-shaped auditorium that, though rarely used for performances today, offers an incredible historical experience. I allocated most of my sightseeing time to the Pilotta’s landmark Galleria Nazionale di Parma, a treasure trove of old master paintings. While it may not rival the sheer scale of Florence’s Uffizi, it offers a distinct advantage: the blissful opportunity to simply turn up without booking, allowing for a quiet and unhurried appreciation of works by luminaries such as Leonardo da Vinci, Fra Angelico, Canaletto, and Tintoretto, free from the usual crowds.

Yet, sightseeing is only one facet of Parma’s profound allure, for this is undoubtedly one of Italy’s undisputed food capitals. The city’s reputation for gastronomic excellence is legendary, and I quickly immersed myself in its culinary delights. I wandered into the rustic, convivial OsteMagno bar, where locals and visitors alike were enthusiastically tucking into tagliere – generous wooden boards piled high with razor-thin slices of the world-famous prosciutto crudo di Parma, artisanal salami, and crumbly aged Parmigiano Reggiano cheese. These delectable platters were invariably accompanied by a glass of the region’s beloved fizzy red Lambrusco wine, a delightful surprise that proved far more drinkable and refreshing than I had anticipated.

This is not a city where one seeks out overly chic, gourmet restaurants; rather, it’s a place to savor the authenticity of its many traditional trattorie. Establishments like Da Antonia, where the eponymous owner has overseen the cucina for over 50 years, or the venerable 120-year-old Trattoria Corrieri, serve up generous plates of homemade pasta – think rich tortelli d’erbetta or savory anolini in brodo – for less than €15, offering a true taste of Emilian home cooking in a convivial atmosphere. Parma is a city that delights the senses, a harmonious blend of art, history, and unparalleled culinary tradition.

John Brunton’s trip included accommodation at Palazzo Dalla Rosa Prati, with doubles from €80 room-only.

Santander, Spain: A Coastal Gem Undergoing a Cultural Metamorphosis

For too long, the northern Spanish port city of Santander has been unjustly dismissed as little more than a ferry terminal – a convenient overnight stop for those traveling with pets to Europe or seeking to minimize their carbon footprint. However, this perception is rapidly being reshaped, as Santander is currently undergoing a remarkable cultural renaissance. Already blessed with a spectacular bay framed by the majestic Cantabrian mountains, expansive sandy beaches, grand colonnaded plazas, and superb regional cuisine, the imminent opening of new art spaces and museums is poised to firmly establish the Cantabrian capital on the map as a premier weekend-break destination.

Leading this exciting transformation is Faro Santander, set to open its doors on September 8th. This new cultural center is housed within a magnificent historical building, formerly the headquarters of Banco Santander, and will showcase a 1,000-piece art collection belonging to the bank. The collection boasts an impressive roster of European masters, including works by Velázquez, Goya, Titian, Rubens, and Picasso, with different segments of this vast collection rotating for public display. The Pereda building, with its ornate white façade facing the bay, has been meticulously transformed into a striking, 21st-century museum space by the Pritzker Prize-winning British architect David Chipperfield, blending historical grandeur with modern functionality.

Santander’s moment in the cultural spotlight will extend into 2027, with the much-anticipated opening of the Reina Sofía Museum’s first outpost outside Madrid. This satellite museum will be located in a similarly grand Neo-Renaissance building, just a few meters from Faro Santander. It will house the Archivo Lafuente, a significant collection of paintings, sculptures, and manuscripts, including major holdings on Dadaism and the Spanish Civil War, as well as art from Spain, North America, and Latin America. Together, Faro Santander and Archivo Lafuente will form two crucial points on a nascent "art triangle," complemented by Renzo Piano’s striking 2017 Centro Botín contemporary art center, situated directly across the road. This iconic building, resembling a giant, stilt-mounted, split-open alarm clock, boasts a bijou but impressive permanent collection, featuring works by Matisse, Juan Gris, Joaquín Sorolla, and Mark Rothko, and hosts dynamic temporary exhibitions.

Spaniards, particularly the well-heeled Madrileños, recognized Santander’s charms long ago. The seafront is lined with elegant fin-de-siècle villas, testaments to a time when the city’s refreshing Atlantic breezes offered the perfect respite from Madrid’s scorching summer heat. More than a century later, as Europe experiences its own heatwaves, I followed their lead. Temperatures lingered in the balmy high 20s as I ambled along the promenade, observing toddlers diligently building sandcastles and teenagers frolicking in the surf on El Sardinero beach, a mere 15-minute bus ride from the city center. The expansive golden sands and gentle waves make it an ideal spot for families and sun-seekers alike.

The city center itself is wonderfully walkable, exuding an unhurried, laid-back vibe that permeates its grand plazas and the narrow, winding alleys near the gothic Cathedral. These charming lanes are lined with inviting bars serving pinchos – the Cantabrian equivalent of tapas, offering an array of small, delicious bites ranging from fresh seafood skewers to cured meats and local cheeses. After indulging in tender, perfectly grilled squid, generously laced with robust garlic and olive oil, at Mesón Rampalay on a leafy square, I spent a fascinating couple of hours at MUPAC – the Museum of Prehistory and Archaeology of Cantabria. Located just a few minutes’ walk from Faro Santander, this museum is home to one of Spain’s most important prehistoric collections, offering excellent interactive displays that illuminate the rich ancient history of the region, including its world-renowned Paleolithic cave art (such as the nearby Altamira Cave). In 2027, MUPAC is also slated to move into a brand-new, multi-million-euro building, further enhancing Santander’s cultural infrastructure. By next year, it is clear that Santander will not only be the proud capital of Cantabria but also a burgeoning capital of culture, offering a compelling blend of natural beauty, historical elegance, and cutting-edge artistic expression.

Eddi Fiegel’s trip was provided by Faro Santander. Abba Santander, conveniently located near the Centro Botín, offers stylish doubles from €66 room-only.