‘I came to the Highlands to give something back to the hills’: a volunteering trip in Scotland

Higher up the hillside, another figure, similarly hunched in concentration, was carving a deep brown scar into the moor grass. I paused, stepping back to appraise my own efforts. At my feet, a newly unblocked cross drain, meticulously repacked with fresh stonework, was already working its magic. A slow, clear burble began to trickle across the sparkling bedrock, a tiny, vibrant stream reclaiming its ancient course. In that moment, surrounded by the raw, untamed majesty of the Scottish Highlands, the simple efficiency of that flowing water felt akin to appreciating a masterwork in a museum – a testament to human intervention, harmonising with nature, creating beauty and function.

My journey to Wester Ross wasn’t for a typical Scottish beach holiday, despite the allure of nearby, particularly gorgeous coastal gems like Achmelvich or Clachtoll. Instead, I had arrived with a bucket and spade, metaphorically speaking, driven by a notion of reciprocal engagement: to give something back to these magnificent hills that offer so much. I had joined a group of volunteers for a two-day stint with the Outdoor Access Trust for Scotland (OATS), an organisation that serves as a vital steward for many of the Highlands’ most famous mountains. Their mission is multifaceted: developing, building, and repairing essential paths and undertaking critical habitat restoration.

The prospect was appealing: a free stay at the welcoming Ullapool youth hostel, the promise of a hearty home-cooked communal meal, and, crucially, an acceptable midge-free forecast – a rare blessing in the Scottish summer. With a buoyant mood, I had driven north from Edinburgh the previous night, eager for the challenge and the connection.

OATS’s core purpose is to promote sustainable public access across Scotland’s wild landscapes. In an era of burgeoning outdoor tourism, this is increasingly achieved through "voluntourism," a concept where participants combine travel with meaningful volunteer work. These dedicated helpers are set to work on a variety of demanding tasks: lifting heavy stones, resurfacing eroded pathways, filling treacherous ruts, and stabilising delicate verges. The cumulative impact of these efforts is landscape-scale, yielding tangible improvements that benefit both the environment and future generations of visitors.

The organisation’s annual priorities often include iconic, if traffic-heavy, mountains such as An Teallach, known for its dramatic ridges, the majestic Lochnagar in the Cairngorms, and Braeriach, one of Britain’s highest peaks. Beyond these summits, OATS extends its protective reach across a throng of glens and estates, from the dramatic landscapes of Skye to the expansive wilderness of the Cairngorms. The vulnerability of these habitats was starkly highlighted by this summer’s devastating fires in parts of the Cairngorms, prompting necessary changes or postponements to some scheduled events as conservation efforts shifted to urgent recovery. The trust’s volunteers even regularly tackle the Lairig Ghru, arguably Britain’s most unforgiving mountain pass, a testament to their dedication and the challenging nature of their work.

While the description might conjure images of relentless, hard graft, the reality is far richer. Volunteers gain invaluable practical skills, learning the intricate craft of mountain path design and construction, as well as a deeper understanding of the causes of erosion. This erosion is predominantly a complex interplay of human misuse – stemming from ever-increasing footfall and, at times, a lack of awareness regarding path etiquette – and the escalating impact of extreme weather conditions. Climate change, in particular, is intensifying these pressures, bringing more frequent and intense rainfall, prolonged dry spells followed by deluges, and more severe freeze-thaw cycles that destabilise mountain soils. All of this unfolds against a backdrop of truly extraordinary views, making the physical exertion deeply rewarding. No prior experience is required, making the opportunity accessible, but volunteers must be accustomed to spending time outdoors, possess good physical fitness, and be capable of safely using hand tools.

Our first morning began at Stac Pollaidh’s car park, a site itself transformed by OATS two years prior to accommodate four times more vehicles. This expansion was a direct response to the mountain’s surging popularity, largely due to its accessibility from the North Coast 500 (NC500), Scotland’s renowned scenic touring route, which hurtles past just five miles east, at the end of the road from Kylesku to Ullapool. The NC500, while a boon for local economies, has dramatically increased visitor numbers to previously quieter areas, amplifying the need for robust path maintenance. Despite the diverse backgrounds and origins of the volunteers, everyone arrived with a shared motivation: a desire to contribute and connect with nature. As we ascended the open moorland, Assynt’s surrounding sea of lochans – hundreds of small, glittering lochs – sparkled under the morning sun. Stac Pollaidh’s distinctive summit, with its porcupine ridge, appeared even more welcoming under a sky as blue as a newborn’s eye.

From below the hilltop to the lower forest’s edge, our team meticulously worked on the path. The tasks were varied and vital: unclogging ditches choked with debris, removing invasive grasses that threatened to destabilise the verges, dredging accumulated sediment, stabilising loose soil with carefully placed stones, repacking stone drains to ensure proper water flow, and replanting edges with native vegetation to prevent further erosion. All the while, the mountain came to life around us. Trail runners, their strides light and agile, dog walkers enjoying the vast expanse, and hikers from across Europe, speaking a multitude of languages, weaved their way up the slopes. Many paused, their curiosity piqued, to ask what we were doing. A French school group trooped past, their pupils plastered with blue Braveheart face paint, adding a touch of playful historical homage to the scene. A Dutch couple, appreciative of our efforts, stopped to offer a packet of biscuits, a small gesture of solidarity. Everyone, without exception, paused to swallow the stunning, uninterrupted views of Suilven, its iconic, sugarloaf peak rising majestically to the north.

Our volunteer group was a microcosm of society: seven individuals united by a shared purpose. It included two New Zealanders, far from home but drawn to Scotland’s wilderness; three retirees – one from Inverness, another from Stirling, and a third from Forfar – bringing a wealth of life experience and a deep-seated love for the Scottish landscape; and an Edinburgh IT worker, utilising his annual corporate volunteer days, a growing trend reflecting businesses’ commitment to social responsibility. All of us appreciated the smiles and words of thanks from passers-by, a quiet acknowledgement that our toil was valued.

To a newcomer, the Highlands’ mountain paths might appear to be as ancient and immutable as the landscape itself, as if an inherent part of its geological DNA. However, as Eva Kupska, OATS’s insightful volunteer coordinator, explained, these paths are "always evolving and always at risk from erosion, because of the influences of nature and man… and it is our job to conserve them." This statement underscores the dynamic and fragile nature of these routes, which require continuous, proactive management.

Every volunteer, Kupska stressed, is vital to this ongoing effort. She highlighted a significant challenge: post-Brexit, the cessation of crucial EU funding streams has created a drastic need for a new, dedicated public fund for path maintenance and habitat restoration. Without such support, the charity simply lacks the manpower and resources to tackle the accelerating deterioration of pathways or the extensive native tree planting required for ecological recovery. To further complicate matters, many of Scotland’s most popular mountain paths traverse privately owned land, which often precludes access to any public funding, creating a patchwork of varying protection and investment. This funding gap is a critical issue for the long-term health of Scotland’s natural heritage, requiring a re-evaluation of national conservation strategies.

Despite these challenges, OATS remains committed to its mission, offering a robust programme of events. There are a further 12 one-day, plus three- and five-day, maintenance and conservation events scheduled to take place this year, including some dedicated tree-planting trips. These events offer not just physical labour but a profoundly joyful shared experience. That first afternoon, amidst the scent of flowering heather and the earthy stink of the bogs, flasks of hot tea were unscrewed, and homemade fruit loaf was passed around. There was a palpable satisfaction in time well spent, immersed in the wild, contributing to something larger than oneself.

That evening, back in Ullapool, the vibrant harbour was abuzz with tourists enjoying fish suppers, while gulls circled lazily above the trawlers bringing in the day’s catch. We gathered in the sea-view kitchen of the Ullapool youth hostel, a hub of camaraderie. Sharing life stories and the day’s experiences, the group bonded over shared blisters and triumphs. While Ullapool boasts plenty of excellent dinner options, including the renowned Seafood Shack and the acclaimed Dipping Lugger, we opted for the warmth of each other’s company (which proved delightful), a selection of local beers (which were certainly necessary), and a giant, gurgling stockpot of Eva’s delicious courgette and tomato risotto (which was terrific). And boy, did I sleep well, the deep, restorative sleep that only comes from honest physical labour and fresh mountain air.

The next day brought a gossamer mist to the hills of Wester Ross, cloaking the landscape in a soft, ethereal veil. We arrived earlier, picked up where we had left off, and, largely, never complained as the sun slowly cracked through the clouds, burning off the mist to reveal the familiar, stunning vistas. But best of all was seeing our tangible progress as we worked our way down the mountain, step by careful step, always avoiding the fragile vegetation at the path’s edges. Each stone placed, each ditch cleared, each section reinforced, contributed to creating something better, more resilient, and ultimately more sustainable for tomorrow’s adventurers. It was a staycation with a profound purpose – and it felt unequivocally good.

The trip was provided by the Outdoor Access Trust for Scotland, with support from VisitScotland. To register as a volunteer and to sign up for events on the annual path maintenance days programme, interested individuals can visit OATS’s dedicated volunteering portal. Overnight accommodation in a youth hostel or a bothy, along with evening meals and transport to and from the restoration site, are thoughtfully included, making these vital conservation efforts accessible to all who wish to contribute.